Classic Summer Restaurants
Hog Island Oyster Company For shellfish lovers, few things surpass the thrill of eating oysters a few yards from where they’re harvested. At Hog Island Oyster Company, customers get to put on rubber gloves and shuck their own Sweetwaters, Kumamotos and Atlantics as soon as they’re pulled out of Tomales Bay. First-timers get the hang of it quickly. Hog Island provides the lemons and hot sauce, but you bring the wine.
DETAILS 20215 Hwy. 1, Marshall; 415-663-9218.
Five Fifty-Five Over at Five Fifty-Five, chef Steve Corry (Best New Chef 2007) has spent the last four years perfecting dishes that emphasize local ingredients, like fennel-crusted Casco Bay monkfish.
DETAILS 555 Congress St.; 207-761-0555.
Clem & Ursie’s A clam shack that serves barbecue? It sounds dicey, but Clem & Ursie’s pulls it off, with terrific shucked shellfish and meaty ribs.
DETAILS 85 Shankpainter Rd., Provincetown; 508-487-2333.
Sfoglia In addition to the fabulous Mediterranean-style food from husband and wife Ron and Colleen Suhanosky—such as fried rock shrimp with lemon and spicy honey, or roasted lobster tail with shaved fennel and pesto—Sfoglia has transcendent bread. If you want to take a loaf home, call a day ahead.
DETAILS 130 Pleasant St.; 508-325-4500.
Cyril’s Fish House The meaty fried clams and the baked lobster stuffed with scallops and crab are great. But when frequent visitor Marc Murphy (chef at Manhattan’s Landmarc) comes to this rowdy roadhouse after a day of surfing in Montauk, he always order oysters on the half shell
DETAILS 2167 Montauk Hwy., Amagansett; 631-267-7993.
Louis’s at Pawleys Charlestonians grieved when Louis Osteen closed Louis’s, his downtown restaurant, four years ago. But Osteen has landed closer to his roots, on Pawleys Island, 70 miles up the coast, where he’s still cooking suave, haute low-country cuisine, like preserved duck with grits and red-eye gravy. The Fish Camp Bar, where you can grab a shrimp burger, is next to the restaurant.
DETAILS 10880 Ocean Hwy., Pawleys Island; 843-237-8757.
Hen of the Wood In 2005, chefs Eric Warnstedt and Craig Tresser opened Hen of the Wood in Waterbury, 25 minutes from downtown. The two alums of Burlington classic Smokejacks do wonderful things with local produce. We loved the zingy salad of Vermont-grown beets from Pete’s Greens and the lamb shank from nearby Winding Brook Farm, served with a spiky, slightly sweet relish of parsley and Meyer lemon.
DETAILS 92 Stowe St.; 802-244-7300.