How to Make Pulled Pork

Set the pork shoulder, fat side up, in doubled 14-by-18-inch disposable aluminum roasting pans. Brush the pork with the mustard mixture.

Roast, uncovered, until the meat is very tender and is pulling away from the shoulder bone. Tilt the pan and pour the roasting juices into a medium bowl; you should have about 1 1/4 cups.

Refrigerate the juices for 30 minutes. Skim off the fat before using.

Meanwhile, light 10 of the charcoal briquettes. When the coals are hot, cover them with the remaining 40 briquettes. When all the coals are hot, arrange 6 cups of the soaked wood chips around the coals.

Set the roasting pan on the grill grate over the coals and wood chips. Cover the grill, partially open the air vents and smoke the pork shoulder.

Transfer the pork to a work surface and let rest for 30 minutes. Pull the meat off of the bones; discard the bones, gristle, skin and fat.

Using tongs and a fork, or your fingers, finely shred the meat and transfer it to a large bowl.

Toss the shredded meat with 1/4 cup of the reserved roasting juices and serve with one of the three barbecue sauces.

In a medium bowl, combine 1 cup of the reserved roasting juices with white wine vinegar and cider vinegar.

Add dark brown sugar and sweet smoked paprika, stirring to dissolve the sugar.

Season with salt, pepper and hot sauce.

To make Southern Carolina Barbecue Sauce, stir yellow mustard into the Eastern Carolina Sauce. Simmer over moderate heat for 30 minutes, until thickened.

To make Western Carolina Barbecue Sauce, stir ketchup into the Eastern Carolina Sauce. Simmer over moderate heat for 30 minutes, until thickened.