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As Kate Krader has mentioned, yesterday we had the distinct pleasure of sampling Thomas Keller’s fried chicken (he has furnished some terrific classic American recipes for an upcoming feature story—lucky, lucky us). The chicken was pretty dreamy: crunchy and mahogany-brown, with zingy lemon and herb flavors from an overnight brine. That said, it still didn’t top the greatest fried chicken recipe of all time. It’s hard to beat a recipe that goes on for eight pages: James Villas’s version takes up the entire first chapter in his book American Taste. An abbreviated version is available on Starchefs.com; it’s actually not that complicated, just perfect in every way. An ideal meal for a Fourth of July picnic.