Roman

Pasta cacio e pepe ("cheese and pepper") is made with Pecorino Romano, a tangy aged sheep's-milk cheese originally from Rome, and lots of freshly ground black pepper. In Lazio, chef Antonio Ciminelli of Osteria Fontana Candida serves an elegant version with short pasta on the menu, and a rustic one with spaghetti for staff.

Roman-style pizza has a cracker-thin crust and is often topped by only tomato and basil. But the outstanding pizza Margherita by executive chef Marco Gallotta at 'Gusto follows the Neapolitan model, with a thicker, chewier crust topped by tomato, basil and lots of oozy, slightly tangy, extremely fresh buffalo mozzarella.

A smooth, full-bodied red with some bright acidity but not too much tannin will stand up to the tomato-rich ragù.

More Pasta Dishes

A not-so-subtle white will blend the salty, tangy and sweet flavors in this swordfish dish by chef Maria Paolillo of Enoteca Ferrara in Rome.

Bucatini cacio e pepe

is one of those dishes that adds up to more than the sum of its parts. Roberto Marchetti, of Al Bric and Al Ciabot, includes cherry tomatoes, which isn't traditional, but does make the recipe less austere.