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Every once in a while, when we try out a new cookbook in the Test Kitchen, we hit upon a recipe that I know for sure I'll make at home. Today, I found one of those recipes: Paula Disbrowe's creamy-crunchy-spicy chicken and citrus slaw tostadas from her new, really fun book, Cowgirl Cuisine. The creaminess of the slaw came from soft tofu (a stellar idea) and the delicious heat came from a canned chipotle chile (an ingredient that I think deserves to be lauded repeatedly). I tend to forget about canned chipotles; then, when they pop up in a recipe, I'm always reminded of how awesome they are. They're also supercheap and can be kept on hand in the pantry (or even in the refrigerator if the can has been opened) for a long time. We've run some terrific summery recipes using canned chipotles in adobo, like Melissa Rubel's amazing barbecued salmon sandwiches and Grace Parisi's BLT burger (the chipotle is in the garlicky sauce on top) and spicy-sweet corn salad.