The Kitchen Party series is a spin-off of my blog, In the Kitchen at Parties, where I combine my two loves, music and baking. An avid record collector for more than 20 years and a DJ for 15, my thoughts are dominated by music. I’ve always had a domineering sweet tooth, and in 2010 I graduated from the Classic Pastry Arts program from the French Culinary Institute. I’ve been combining the worlds of music and desserts ever since.
My recipes are inspired by my favorite musicians, both old and new. I like my music loud and my desserts to be louder, in taste.
The music: “You’re The One For Me Fatty” by Morrissey
The recipe: Earl grey ice cream with bittersweet chocolate and Maldon sea salt
Morrissey’s been on my mind lately. His solo tour begins next week and I was an obsessed Morrissey and Smiths fan as an adolescent. In 1992, I saw him live at a trio of violent shows in New York while he was on tour promoting his genius fourth solo record, Your Arsenal. One memorable track off the record, “You’re the One For Me, Fatty,” is a cutting and sneering tale of love and trying not to stand in one’s way. For me as a DJ-turned-baker, the title conjures thoughts of a rich, creamy dessert with flecks of bitterness. Morrissey is quintessentially English, so Earl Grey tea makes a fitting base. I used bittersweet Valrhona chocolate because Moz is known to be difficult, jaded and…well…bitter. Read his recently released Autobiography, which includes quotes like—"All human activity is fruitless when pitted against the girls and boys singing on pop television, for they have found the answer as the rest of us search for the question."—and you’ll know what I’m referring to. The lush consistency of a floral–noted ice cream, paired with jagged shards of chocolate and Maldon salt are contradicting textures, much like Morrissey. His dramatically sensitive lyrics tug at your teenage heartstrings of yesterday, while he lashes back with a razor-sharp insult in chorus. It really does hurt so good.
Earl Grey Ice Cream with Bittersweet Chocolate and Maldon Sea Salt
Makes one quart
473 ml whole milk
3 Earl Grey tea bags
200 gm granulated sugar
8 large egg yolks
473 ml heavy cream
75 gm bittersweet chocolate
Maldon sea salt for sprinkling
In a saucepan, bring the milk and tea bags to a boil with half of the sugar. Remove from the heat and let steep for 20 minutes. Reheat the milk mixture over medium heat and remove the tea bags.
Meanwhile, in a bowl, whisk the egg yolks with the remaining half of the sugar until the mixture is pale in color.
Add ⅓ of the hot milk to the egg mixture to temper it. Add the egg mixture to the saucepan of milk and cook on low, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon until the mixture holds a line on the back of the spoon.
Immediately pour the mixture through a fine sieve into a bowl set over an ice bath. When cooled, add the heavy cream, and then process in your ice cream machine.
While the ice cream is processing, coarsely chop the chocolate. When the processing is done, fold the chocolate into the ice cream by hand. Store in the freezer for at least 4 hours.
When serving, sprinkle Maldon sea salt on top. It adds a great crunch!
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