With Thanksgiving coming up, I’ve had whipped cream on my mind – or rather, delicious alternatives. Whipped cream is the key garnish to my father’s Thanksgiving pumpkin pie, and when I was little, it was my sister’s and my job to put the beaters and the bowl in the freezer before whipping the cream with Dad. Now when I make a pie or a cake, often without thinking I’ll chill my beaters to serve a little alongside. But now that the weather's finally chilly and perfect for baking, I’ve become preoccupied with other fluffy white accompaniments to pie: crème fraiche, mascarpone, soft fresh ricotta. To that end, I want to point you to a favorite recipe from our November issue: Octavio Becerra’s date cake, an incredibly moist concoction the Los Angeles chef serves with lebneh, Lebanese yogurt that the chef combines with crunchy pistacchios. Perfect for a chilly pre-Thanksgiving evening.