Trattoria Dishes

By Food & Wine
Updated April 18, 2019
These regional Italian classics include Milanese risotto and swordfish Sicilian-style.
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Hearty Minestrone Soup

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This satisfying soup from David Bull is an excellent source of fiber.

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Chicken alla Diavola

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Salvatore Denaro's pollo alla diavola ("devil's-style chicken") is intensely seasoned. Two days prior to cooking, Denaro infuses white wine vinegar with a big bunch of dried Sicilian oregano for a marinade. Then he seasons the marinated chicken with an exotic herb mixture, or condimento, that includes Turkish bay laurel ("the only kind to use," Denaro says) and myrtle leaves. Feel free to experiment with a variety of herbs for the condimento. Pollo alla diavola is traditionally grilled over wood embers, but the chicken may also be grilled over a charcoal or gas fire, or broiled in an oven.

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Penne Arrabbiata with Flaked Cod

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Arrabbiata means angry and is often used to describe a spicy tomato sauce. Cook the cod directly in the sauce and then break it into flakes. If you prefer, you can use another fish with large flakes, such as orange roughy or haddock, instead of the cod.

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Meyer Lemon Risotto with Basil

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If you can't find any Meyer lemons, use regular (Eureka) lemons.

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Spicy Chicken Cacciatore

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Although this Italian standard has suffered at the hands of lesser chefs, Barbara Lynch redeems it. She ably deconstructs what is often a heavy sauce into its vivid components: bright red strips of bell pepper, sweet slices of onion, hot pickled peppers and fresh chopped tomatoes.

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Pork Loin Roast with Herbs and Garlic

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Taylor Boetticher, founder of the Napa charcuterie company Fatted Calf, roasts this bone-in pork loin the best way possible: by cutting the loin off the rib bones (which any butcher should be able to do), rubbing the meat with a bright mix of fresh herbs and garlic, then tying the bones back on. The ribs themselves help to keep the meat moist in the oven. They also become especially crisp and succulent; pass them alongside the roast for guests to eat with their hands.

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Milanese Risotto

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Pair this warm dish with an earthy, medium-bodied Italian red.

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Swordfish Sicilian-Style

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From cookbook genius Marcella Hazan, a little herb-infused dressing transforms just-grilled swordfish steaks.

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