At his upcoming restaurant, Night + Market Sahm, Kris Yenbamroong is going to serve the greatest hits of his other spots, but also unabashed Asian fusion dishes, against the backdrop of marble columns and a giant fish tank.
Kris Yenbamroong
Credit: © Ken Tisuthiwongse

We thought we couldn't be more excited about our brand new Best New Chef Kris Yenbamroong and his excellent LA restaurants, Night + Market and Night + Market Song.

Then he told us about Night Market Sahm (Sahm means three in Thai). NM3, says Yenbamroong, is under the same umbrella as the other NM restaurants in that it's a fun, very social place with cool natural wine list. "But," he says, "Song is more like a watering hole—I call it a shack. Sahm will be a lot more decadent, in that 80s/90s way." For one thing, there will be waterfalls! Marble columns! A giant fish tank! ("Actually that stuff already exists in the place we're taking over, ha ha.") If all goes according to plan, he'll also have a huge Technicolor mural, designed by an artist friend.

And then there's the menu. Yenbamroong has been thinking a lot about his family's restaurant Talésai, the first ambitious Thai place in LA. In its heyday, in the 80s, waitresses wore black leather, and Mick Jagger and Madonna, on dates with Warren Beatty and Axl Rose, hung out there. Yenbamroong's grandmother, Vilai, was the chef.

"At NM3, I'll revisit a lot of the dishes that my grandma innovated during Talésai's heyday," he says. "I'm thinking about the Golden Triangle—seafood 'mortadella' in crispy wonton skin; and we'll sell Prakas Rib-Eye—grilled dry-aged rib-eye, sliced and wok-fried with bird eye, garlic, oyster sauce, tomato, Thai basil and Parmigiano-Reggiano. Also: BBQ unagi with sugar snap peas; marinated chicken thighs steamed in corn husk, and probably a bunch of different spring rolls. I also want to have raw bar section of the menu and a few pastas. I want to do some unabashed Asian fusion dishes too. 'Cause why not?" Yenbamroong will also offer some favorite NM dishes like crispy rice salad, pork toro, and Bangkok mall pasta. "I see Sahm as a blockbuster restaurant, with something for everyone," says Yenbamroong. "We could just open another Song, but I want to have a little more fun. My mindset is cocaine Thai."

Night + Market Sahm opens in Venice at the end of June. Get ready, LA. It's going to be FUN.