© Wynn Las VegasI know how weird it sounds to say that you went to Las Vegas to eat fish. I’m especially aware of it because I drove hundreds of miles through the desert from L.A. to do it (and to see Beyoncé, but that’s another story). But I was determined to try the much-talked-about seafood at Bartolotta at Wynn Las Vegas, especially since Paul Bartolotta racked up yet another James Beard Best Chef award this spring. I ate some 17 varieties of seafood, including tubular mezzi pasta with scorpion fish and eggplant, butter-poached turbot with langoustines and my new favorite thing, grilled slipper lobster. I’m not sure any of the seafood was local—in fact, the chef was in Italy sourcing ingredients while I was at his restaurant—but it was amazing. This being Vegas, dinner is occasionally accompanied by entertainment: Steve Martin recently ate there and said the presentation of the fish reminded me of a skit. He then asked for "the ugliest fish for dinner." They served him the turbot.