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© Cook It Raw/Per Anders Jorgensen
René Redzepi (left), chef of the World's Best Restaurant, Noma.I get so caught up in F&W’s 10 Best New Chefs in America that I forget about the rest of the world. Luckily, our phenomenal contributor Anya von Bremzen (author of The New Spanish Table) doesn’t. In F&W’s May issue, von Bremzen chronicled food congresses like Madrid Fusión and elite chefs like René Redzepi of Noma who are the stars of those congresses. (This year, she noted, the trend was neo-naturalism.) And now the World’s 50 Best Restaurant Awards have just been announced, and almost all the chefs von Bremzen featured are on the list. Guess what was the #1 restaurant: Noma. Here are AVB’s thoughts on the 50 Best Restaurant list.

“This award is about current critical opinion. Noma’s #1 reflects a turn away from molecular, toward new naturalism. Definitely, it’s a new direction and a new era. Ferran Adria, obviously everyone knows he’s closing El Bulli, so the vote makes sense [he slipped to #2 this year]. I think the food poisoning news hurt Heston Blumenthal [his Fat Duck fell one spot to #3]. The Roca brothers are big current media darlings; their food is super-technical yet accessible [their El Cellar de Can Roca, up one spot to #4]. And France! Le Chateaubriand went up 29 spots! [to #11], while three-star L’Astrance is down 5 [to #16]. So critical opinion is swaying towards bistronomie.”

Here’s what I’ll say in my defense. Of the seven U.S. chefs on the Top 50 List, six of them are F&W Best New Chefs. Hooray for:

BNC '02 Grant Achatz of #7 Alinea in Chicago
BNC '88 Daniel Boulud of #8 Daniel in New York City
BNC '88 too! Thomas Keller of #10 Per Se in New York City and and #32 French Laundry in Yountville, California
BNC '06 David Chang of #26 Momofuku Ssäm Bar in New York City
BNC '01 Wylie Dufresne of #45 wd-50 in New York City
BNC '05 Daniel Humm of #50 Eleven Madison Park in New York City