In the past year or two, many a Brussels sprout hater has been converted by chefs who are serving these mini cabbages in all kinds of delicious ways on their winter menus. The secret to good sprouts, really, is not boiling them until they're smelly and mushy, the way so many well-meaning but misguided moms have done. Last week at Momofuku Ssäm Bar, I had one of the best Brussels spouts preparations yet and I went back last night for another fix, since the sprouts will soon be out of their peak season. David Chang, the current chef darling of the New York press and one of our favorites at F&W, deep-fries halved sprouts and serves them in a bath of fish sauce, chiles and loads of mint. A topping of chile-dusted puffed rice adds an addictive crunch. I love how these little umami bombs are perfectly crisp but the salty, spicy sauce oozes from between the leaves with each bite. I’m excited that warmer weather will soon bring spring and summer vegetables for David to make more brilliant things, but I’ll surely miss these sprouts. At least I now have one great reason to look forward to winter.