Angie Mar Dreams of Ribeye at The Beatrice Inn, Revamped and Opening Today
After a year of mulling over (with Vanity Fair editor Graydon Carter, the Inn's outgoing proprietor) and a month of menu testing (during which the restaurant was closed), Mar is now running the show at the storied chophouse and A-list celeb hangout. But her protein-forward cooking is staying put at The Beatrice Inn, which opens for service again tonight.
“What’s really exciting for me with this iteration of The Beatrice Inn is that I can showcase some dishes I’ve been working on for a long time and having in my back pocket,” Mar says.
On the menu under the Marlow & Sons and Spotted Pig alum, you certainly won't see anything vegetable-forward. That means roast duck flambé, set afire tableside and served with a cherry sauce, branzino en croute and kobe dry-aged in sake, a technique she picked up last year from a Parisian butcher.
A love of all things meaty runs in her family, and with this menu she’s drawing from her father’s kitchen, a place where Sundays were meant for braising down meat and the prize after morning races to the fridge was leftover T-bone steaks from the night before. But the chef isn’t just into the expensive stuff.
“I love ribeyes and the porterhouses, but what’s really cool are the more cost-effective cuts of meat that pack a lot of flavor,” Mar says.
Here she explains her three favorite cuts of beef that won’t break the bank:
“I love the sticky gelatinous quality that it exudes when you braise it,” Mar says of the marrow-filled tail bone. “It’s one of the most beefy tasting cuts on the animal.” Stew it down with pancetta in this recipe.
“The meat-to-fat ratio is really fantastic,” she explains. “An 85-to-15 percent lean-to-fat ratio is the sweet spot.” The chuck from the shoulder and neck is perfect in this brothy, basil-scented beef.
“This cut tends to turn into burger grind,” Mar says. “However, it grills beautifully and is tremendously flavorful.” Swap it in for skirt in this paprika butter-slathered preparation.