A Zippy, Delicious French White
You don't have to be a hoarder or deep-pocketed auction-goer to drink well-aged wine. Here, we spotlight affordable old bottles to buy now.
2002 Domaine du Haut Bourg Muscadet Origine: Like another old Muscadet on the market (Domaine Michel Brégeon’s 2004), this Loire Valley white spent many years in concrete tanks on its lees (inert yeast cells) before being bottled. The result is a complex aged wine at a price comparable to Muscadets that are just a few years old. Though it’s available from just a few sources, it’s such a terrific bargain that it’s worth ordering online.
The (Wonderful) Effects of Age: Tart and crisp Muscadet will sometimes get darker and rounder as it ages, but this bottling is still amazingly zippy. There’s not much fruit, save for some lime zest, but there is a useful expression of what wine writers call minerality: wet rocks, oyster shells and a definite salty quality. It’s a tasty and very dry wine that’s tremendously interesting for its price.
Drink It With: Oysters Rocafella, Mario Carbone and Rich Torrisi’s fantastic dinner party appetizer.