The Worlds Third Best Chef: The Movie (Mugaritz B.S.O.)
Per-Anders Jorgensen courtesy of Phaidon Press
It’s been an action-packed restaurant award season. Earlier this week, the James Beard Foundation lavished awards on restaurants like Manhattan’s Gramercy Tavern and bars like PDT in New York City (yay for PDT's Jim Meehan!). Last week, the World’s 50 Best Restaurants handed out honors. Number 1 was Noma in Copenhagen (yay for chef René Redzepi!), followed by El Celler de Can Roca, Girona, Spain at Number 2.
The world’s Number 3 best restaurant is the astonishing Mugaritz in San Sebastián, Spain where chef Andoni Luis Aduriz promotes naturalism in cooking. (He’s famous for serving potatoes that look exactly like rocks on a beach.) Everyone should go there immediately to sample his food. For those who can’t get a flight/reservation to Mugaritz right this moment, here’s fantastic news.
First is Andoni’s gorgeous upcoming book, Mugaritz. It’s especially helpful for scientifically minded cooks who want to make a dish called Crunchy Milk Sheets with Sweet Beans, Ice Cream of Citrus Peel and Orange Blossom Water. But it’s also mesmerizing armchair reading, not just for the photos, but also for the way he documents concepts like the evolution of a food idea.
Second is the new movie, Mugaritz B.S.O., which is being screened Thursday night, May 10, in Manhattan at Lincoln Center, before it goes to Toronto on Friday. For three years, musician Felipe Ugarte studied Aduriz’s cooking – now Ugarte has put the preparation of dishes, from start to finish, to music. Some of the dishes in the film are straight from the book. For instance, for "Piece of Veal, roasted and perfumed with vine cutting embers" (pages 113-114 in the book, if you’re checking), Ugarte mimics the texture of the charred veal by layering the sounds of the fire with back up vocals from a young choir. Here's the added benefit: Aduriz himself will be at the Manhattan screening and for a Q&A. And here's the super-plus benefit: At the screening, you can also buy that gorgeous book weeks before its actual release date, and get him to sign it for you.