When it comes to paella, chefs Jamie Bissonnette and Ken Oringer of Toro are strict about one thing: You need to use Bomba rice. If you don’t have that, then don’t even bother. But everything else that goes into the classic, crispy-bottomed rice dish is loosey goosey. “We love to improvise,” says Oringer. “We always wing it with whatever we have in the kitchen cupboards; sometimes we’ll throw in ramen season or smoked bone marrow.” Watch the video above from the 2015 Food & Wine Classic in Aspen to see the chef duo make what Bissonnette would classify as “wicked” delicious paella.