This Umami-Rich Pasta is Alive with Sourdough Starter
When life hands you sourdough starter, make pasta. That’s what chefs Kim Floresca and Daniel Ryan (F&W’s 2014 People’s BNC) of [ONE] Restaurant in Chapel Hill thought, anyway.
When life hands you sourdough starter, make pasta. That’s what chefs Kim Floresca and Daniel Ryan (F&W’s 2014 People’s BNC) of [ONE] Restaurant in Chapel Hill thought, anyway. The chefs have long cultivated sourdough for the restaurant’s bread program, but inspiration struck a year ago to incorporate it into pasta. “It makes perfect sense," says Floresca. "Both are essentially comprised of the same thing." After some experimentation, they came up with a recipe that resulted in the perfect level of tang
The two chefs turned their invention into a creamy, umami-rich pasta dish with an unusual level of complexity. Here's the breakdown:
1. Coda di turchialini pasta: Nestled inside are large curds of cottage cheese and locally-foraged, braised lily bulb shoots (which taste like mild scallions). As for the shape: Floresca and Ryan were crimping the pasta so it would hold sauce, and they noticed the result's similarity to a turkey's fanned-out feathers. Hence, turkey tail pasta or coda di turchialini.
2. Sweetbread nuggets: After brining, the chefs cook sweetbreads sous vide. They then cut them into nuggets, toss them in sweet potato starch and double-fry for an extra-crispy exterior. "It makes them crunchy but soft and supple in the center," says Floresca. The nuggets get tossed in lemon juice and veal demi-glace before serving.
3. Morel cream sauce: It's actually a pan sauce, made by deglazing sautéed morels with cream. "It's a quick, earthy sauce for this delicate dish," says Floresca.
4. Garnish of tiny red bud and arugula flowers: "They arugula flowers have great freshness," says Floresca.