A Travel Editor’s Best Dishes of 2010
© Jen Murphy
Breakfast of Champions: Chipirones and Cava at El Quim, Barcelona.
In the December issue of Food & Wine, the editors share the most amazing restaurant dishes they tasted in America this year. I had an epic year of globe-trotting and I’ve combed through my notes to recall the most memorable and satisfying things I ate in 2010, both at home and abroad. One thing is certain: I ate extremely well. Here, my favorites:
1. Sea bass in singha broth— a savory reduction of crab and shrimp—accompanied by a tiny copper pot of paella from brilliant young chef Virgilio Martinez at Central in Lima, Peru.
2. Wild hare confit beneath a supersavory reduction sauce enriched with rabbit blood from the distractingly handsome Torres brothers at Dos Cielos in Barcelona.
3. The mozzarella sticks from Torrisi Italian Specialties’ stand at NYC’s San Gennaro festival.
4. The Grains, Seeds, Nuts dish topped with sultana grapes and an amaranth veil and served with a sunflower broth from Curtis Duffy at Avenues in Chicago.
5. Charred leeks, hazelnuts and milk skin prepared by genius chef Nuno Mendes at Viajante in London. (Read more about Mendes in our January issue.)
6. Chipirones a la plancha with olive oil, topped with a fried egg and best paired with endless glasses of cava and a side of fried artichokes, at El Quim de la Boqueria in Barcelona.
7. Kataifi-wrapped langoustines with uchiki kuri squash, pumpkin seed oil and pickled pear from Barbara Lynch prodigy Colin Lynch at Menton in Boston.
8. Cinnamon mille-feuille and cardamom marshmallow with burnt honey ice cream at Commonwealth in San Francisco.
9. The haute version of the middle-class German dish Senfei from Reinstoff in Berlin. Chef Daniel Achilles takes a quail’s egg pickled in Dijon, lightly coats it in a sugar Bautz’ner mustard caramel, and serves it on a savory beet macaroon filled with a smoky blood pudding cream.
10. Lime and chili-cured red snapper with cucumber jelly (almost like a Burmese ceviche) from Burmese chef Bawmra Jap at Bomra’s in Goa, India.
11. The pork buns from Cantina, the hidden restaurant behind Bar Tausend in Berlin, which rivaled even David Chang’s version at NYC’s Ssäm Bar.