Philadelphia chef Peter Serpico swaps citrusy flavors for creamy ones in the sauce for his raw diver scallops.
The raw fish dishes called crudos have become ubiquitous at restaurants, invariably doused with lemon or lime juice. But at Serpico in Philadelphia, Peter Serpico goes in the opposite direction: “For some reason,” he says, “with raw scallops, creamy and creamy work really well together.” He dresses thinly sliced diver scallops with Sriracha-laced buttermilk, dabs each slice with yuzu kosho (Japanese chile paste) and adds a sprinkling of crunchy poppy seeds. The flavors unexpectedly evoke sour-cream-and-onion potato chips. “I know it sounds weird, but the buttermilk is tart and cool, like sour cream, and the chive oil gives it an onion flavor,” he says. “It just works.” 604 South St.; serpicoonsouth.com.