I had a divine lunch the other day in the Food Network Kitchens, courtesy of the National Bison Association (aka the other NBA). The NBA did a very smart thing: they brought along Michael Paley, the super-talented executive chef at Louisville, Kentucky's Proof on Main. The restaurant's owners also own the Kentucky Bison Company, so Michael has a lot of access to and experience with the various cuts of buffalo. The meal started with a tartare, which they were still raving about when I arrived. Fortunately, I got there in time for the awesome, thinly shaved corned buffalo with spaghetti squash "kraut," the juicy, jaw-stretching ground chuck and brisket burger and my very favorite, the deeply beefy—I mean buffalo-y— tenderloin "chop," cooked on the bone and served with buttered leeks. I often buy freshly ground buffalo at Whole Foods because I think it makes a tastier burger, but the steaks still seem harder to come by. I think that will change in the near future, since sales are already up 17 percent over last year.
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