London’s Pop-Up Street Food
© Ratha Tep
Street Kitchen's Mark Jankel and Jun TanakaPop-up dining is having its moment in London: There are new pop-up restaurants and supper clubs, and now there's Street Kitchen, a 14-day pop-up on wheels that debuted last week at Covent Garden for the London Restaurant Festival. Out of their shiny Airstream trailer, Mark Jankel of The Food Initiative and Jun Tanaka of Pearl give British dishes like braised beef with roasted carrots and celeriac mash an extreme locavore spin, using strictly UK ingredients that come directly from farmers and producers (that means no black pepper or olive oil). That local ethos even extends to the cooking: The sublime salmon, from Scourie, Scotland's Loch Duart aquafarm (the only place the French Laundry goes to for its salmon), is delicately smoked with whiskey-barrel chips from a Scottish distillery. Street Kitchen moves to Old Spitalfields Market today, where it will operate through Monday. Potentially in the works for the near future is that pop-up sibling, the roving food truck.