Ignacio Mattos of Il Buco. Four hundred or so people will descend upon New York City's Bond Street Monday afternoon for the fifth annual pig roast at Il Buco. Starting at 6 a.m., 28-year-old chef Ignacio Mattos and his crew will cook a 200-pound, part Ossabaw-breed pig from North Carolina. For the second year in a row, the Uruguay-born chef will be using an infernillo—a contraption built by famed Argentine chef Francis Mallmann (one of Ignacio’s longtime mentors)—which cooks the pig between two sets of fiery coals. Unlike La Caja China, which is an enclosed box used for roasting outside, the infernillo is open on the sides. “It’s a little tricky, to be honest. Especially if it’s windy. But it’s fun. You really have to ride the fire,” says Mattos. In addition to the large pig, he will serve apple-pork sausages, local greens from Yuno’s Farm and ricotta-and-apple fritters with saba. At least there’s one reason to be happy it’s fall.