Star chef Hugh Acheson finds big flavors in a little country.
I found myself in the little country of Luxembourg recently on my way to Milan. I spent four days there with some fun commitments to cook at the U.S. Embassy for the State Department. The embassy seemed to be the most relaxed embassy ever. In fact, the whole country seemed very mellow. The city of Luxembourg is very beautiful, surrounded by fortresses and canyons, naturally defended by geography on three sides. The food scene is rich in Michelin stars, with a nice little café culture in the City Center. I stayed at the Hotel Parc Belair, which sits on a beautiful public park that is vibrant, with kids running around and people doing healthy stuff like running and walking.
WHERE TO STAY
Hotel Parc Belair 111 Avenue du 10 Septembre, N5, 2551, Luxembourg
WHERE TO EAT
Best Wine and Food Pairs: La Rameaudiere
The restaurant is located just outside of town. The very ebullient chef, Daniel Remeau, cooks with finesse and a very proud set of Luxembourg ingredients: terrine de foie gras with plums, local beef in the style of Wellington, rouget, langoustines and crevettes. It’s all served with particularly great Luxembourg wines that we just don't see in the U.S. The wine country is on the Mosel River and the whites are the star, with amazing Pinot Noir rising up the ranks. 10 r. de la Gare, 5690 Ellange, Luxembourg
Terrific Charcuterie: Am Tiirmschen
It’s a hidden little place that opens at 7 p.m. for dinner. Had a terrific traditional charcuterie plate with ham, boiled beef salad, head cheese and pâté en croûte. I also liked the smoked ham with roasted dumplings, broad beans and buttery sauce. All accompanied by a solid Luxembourg focused wine list. 32, rue de l’eau, L-1449 Luxembourg-Vill
Best Coffee: Knopes Torrefacteur
An amazing coffee shop inside a beautiful design shop. Meander through and pick up a sandwich or a quiche, then sit and order a coffee. It’s a very cool spot with nooks and crannies and good people. Best coffee I had in Luxembourg by far! 70 Route d'Esch, 1470 Luxembourg
Great Food Truck Scene
There were a number of interesting food trucks in the area. We did a food truck event in the city of Esch, where American pecans were the featured ingredient in three different dishes from three different trucks. Great burgers from Kim at The Food Truck Co. If he wasn’t into food. I think he would want to be an Elvis Impersonator. He is that into American culture. He made a burger with plum jam, arugula and pecan remoulade. And then Joo, which means "yes" in Swedish, is owned by a Swedish woman named Bea. Her chef is Nepalese. He has a really interesting array of flavors going on in the food. It’s the world’s pantry. He made chicken Biryani with pecans, cucumber raita.
WHERE TO SHOP
Fantastic Wine Shop: Vinoteca
This shop is staffed with very friendly people and an awesomely curated selection from around the world. Supercool shelving, too. I geeked out a little too much. 23 Rue du Nord, L 2229, Luxembourg
WHERE TO GO
Go to the Parc Ed. J. Klein to look at a very cool old fort. Like way old. Totally wild landscaping, too. Boulevard Prince Henri, Luxembourg