© Amy Rosen
Eton Mess doughnut from Jelly Modern Doughnuts
Food & Wine's Toronto correspondent, Amy Rosen, reports on Canada's most exciting new doughnut shop:
"New York City may have Doughnut Plant and L.A., The Donut Man, but up here in Canada, where the doughnut is basically our national
food, we’ve had to settle for Tim Horton’s to satiate our doughy fix. However, this isn’t the case in Calgary, Alberta—not since Jelly Modern Doughnuts opened a couple of months ago. Home to all-natural, preservative-free, hand-dipped and filled doughnuts that follow the Calgary aesthetic of “bigger is better,” Jelly Modern's gourmet doughnuts are not only one-and-a-half times larger than the average Timmy’s, but chef Grayson Sherman dreams up weekly specials in addition to the already elaborate daily lineup that runs from maple bacon to Valrhona chocolate to the spiced carrot cake topped with cream cheese icing and frizzled organic carrots. During Prince William and Kate’s visit to Calgary last week, which coincided with the opening parade for the 99th annual Calgary Stampede, the chef created a doughnut inspired by the Prince’s favorite dessert. This translated into the Eton Mess: A raised doughnut with Madagascar vanilla glaze, Chantilly cream (made from local, organic 53 percent MF whipping cream), crunchy fresh-baked meringues and a fresh raspberry coulis. I found it to be both a perfectly sweet flavor bomb and a creamy, crunchy textural dream. In other words, a doughnut fit for a prince."