We asked chefs what cut of meat they thought was the most underappreciated and deserved more love. Here’s what they had to say.
Meatopia is an annual celebration of all things meat and this year it coincided with the New York City Wine and Food Festival. There was chicken, quail, pork and an entire steer being grilled over an open flame. It was a bacchanal for carnivores as well as chefs who truly love meat. We took the opportunity to ask a few of them what cut of meat they thought was the most underappreciated and deserved more love. Here’s what they had to say:
“I feel like people forgot about the importance of skirt steak. I love skirt steak. I like it marinated with something that’s salty and sweet, then charred. It’s fatty, it’s toothsome—I don’t like anything too soft, I like texture in my food. It’s got some much inter-muscular fat and flavor. When you chew it it’s like meat gum.” —Jamie Bissonnette; Toro, NYC & Boston
“It’s funny, people don’t use fillet anymore and I love it. You just have to get a lot of char on it and smoke on it.” —Jose Enrique; Jose Enrique, San Juan, Puerto Rico
“What I’ve been enjoying lately are the beef oysters. It comes from the very, very backbone of the cow but you only get two per cow. I’ve only been able to get them from my butcher. I like them barely cooked and sliced thin.” —Paul Qui; Qui, Austin
“I believe that it’s the better cut for a burger. Rather than just a hodgepodge of ground meat, I go for that first-cut chuck because there’s a little bit of short rib, a little bit of leaner meat and also a little bit of fat so there’s a good ratio. It’s almost its own mix. You can ask for it from your butcher—it’s about an 8 pound piece of meat. It’s very versatile.” —Bryan Voltaggio; Range, Washington DC