Nite Yun

At her Oakland restaurant Nyum Bai, chef Nite Yun serves classic Cambodian street food like this quick-cured, brightly acidic halibut in lettuce cups, AKA plea trey. Red Thai chiles, as opposed to green, impart a subtle fruitiness and more up-front spice in the lime marinade, which pulls double-duty as a dressing. A touch of oil right before serving adds flavor-boosting richness to lean halibut.
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Wok cooking happens quickly, so prepare each ingredient beforehand. 2019 Best New Chef Nite Yun’s intensely flavorful marinade not only tenderizes the flank steak but also adds punchy flavor in just a few minutes of cooking. Golden Mountain seasoning sauce is slightly saltier than soy sauce, with a hint of sweetness. Find it online and at Asian markets. Kampot peppercorns are available at oaktownspiceshop.com.