Kris Yenbamroong
Kris Yenbamroong

Kris Yenbamroong

Restaurant: Night + Market (Read a review) and Night + Market Song Location: West Hollywood, CA Why He's Amazing: Because he created a terrific, innovative pork-centric Thai street food spot adjacent to his parents' well-respected but aging Thai restaurant on Sunset Boulevard. Culinary School: Self-taught Background: Talésai (/sites/default/files/est Hollywood) Quintessential Dish: Pork toro: grilled fatty hog collar with jaew northeastern chile dip Night + Market's Philosophy: "I love my family's restaurant [Talésai] but people come in and do the stereotypical L.A. thing and ask for modifications [to the dishes they order]. Night + Market food is uncompromising, unmessed with." Food Style: "In Thai, it's called aharn glam lao, which roughly translates to 'food to facilitate drinking' or 'booze food.' That's at the heart of what we do. We make food for drunkards." Alternative Career: Yenbamroong studied film at New York University. DIY Ethic: "We make our sausage completely by hand, on the premises. For the first few months, we used a Chinese soup spoon to stuff them because we didn't have a stuffer." A Family Timeline 1982The year Kris Yenbamroong was born, his family opened L.A.'s first ambitious Thai restaurant, Talésai. His grandmother Vilai was the chef. "It was the '80s, and we were 10 doors down from Geffen Records," says Yenbamroong. "The waitresses wore black leather skirts, and Madonna came in with Warren Beatty. Mick Jagger came in, too. My grandma was on the cover of the Los Angeles Times Magazine with Thomas Keller." 2011Fast-forward three decades: Yenbamroong tried updating Talésai by serving unfamiliar Northern Thai dishes, but longtime customers resisted the change. So he decided to open Night + Market, where he could experiment. At his second spot, Night + Market Song, his powerful, spicy dishes include Bangkok Mall Pasta with Thai bird chile and lots of peppercorns.
Shrimp Toast
Rating: Unrated
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In this Night + Market dish by Kris Yenbamroong, blending fresh shrimp with pork fat creates a juicy, tender paste to spread on springy milk bread. Pork fat, from the back or belly (not rendered, like lard), can be easily chopped after freezing until quite firm, about 20 minutes.
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This sweet and savory snack mix by Kris Yenbamroong of Night + Market is seriously delicious. Lime leaves and lemongrass bring citrusy flavor to the buttery cashews, toasted coconut, and crispy garlic. Frying each element individually ensures crunchy—not burned—components. Use a food processor to make quick work of the garlic.
Tender wide rice noodles pick up color and peppery, meaty flavor when charred in a wok with thick slices of pastrami. This speedy, flavor-packed dish by Kris Yenbamroong of Night + Market cooks up quickly, so have all the ingredients at the ready before heating the wok.
Low and slow grilling keeps these wings juicy and gives the skin time to render and and char. Jaew, a sweet and sour chile sauce, delivers a heat-packed punch in this Night + Market recipe by Kris Yenbamroong.
Prakas' Rib Eye
Rating: Unrated
2
Freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano adds an unexpected hit of nutty, sweet flavor to rib eye steaks marinated in Thai seasoning sauce, white pepper, and soy sauce in this Night + Market recipe by Kris Yenbamroong, who named the dish for his father, Prakas. Quickly searing the steaks allows them to develop a dark, flavorful crust before resting, slicing, and finishing them in the pan sauce, where they absorb even more flavor and cook to a perfect medium-rare. Stirring fresh Thai basil into the warm steak and tomatoes just before serving allows it to gently perfume the whole dish.
In this Night + Market dish by Kris Yenbamroong, spicy fresh ginger brings brightness and a pleasant crunch to this salad. Cooked and cooled rice is seasoned with curry paste and dusted with a generous coating of rice flour then fried until über-crunchy. For the crispiest result, chill the rice for at least 1 day before assembling.
Thai-Style Shrimp Cocktail
Rating: Unrated
New!
Kris Yenbamroong of Night + Market invites a quick garlic aioli and super spicy fish sauce–based dipping sauce to the shrimp cocktail party. Using a fork to crush the garlic for the aioli leaves it sweeter and less pungent while still breaking down the fibrous cloves for a creamy dipping sauce. Serve the shrimp alongside ramekins of aioli and nam jim seafood sauce for dipping, or arrange the shrimp around the rim of a coupe glass filled with nam jim for more intense flavor.
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Quintessential dish: Grilled fatty pig neck Thai chile dip. Read more about this amazing Los Angeles talent, one of the new Food & Wine Best New Chefs.
Chef Kris Yenbamroong of Night + Market and Night + Market Song in L.A. says this is one of his favorite summer treats because it's "high pleasure, low hassle." The coconut milk and sugar in the sauce that glazes the corn intensify the sweet corn flavor. Slideshow:  More Grilled Corn Recipes 
Thai-Style Shrimp Cocktail
Rating: Unrated
New!
Kris Yenbamroong of Night + Market invites a quick garlic aioli and super spicy fish sauce–based dipping sauce to the shrimp cocktail party. Using a fork to crush the garlic for the aioli leaves it sweeter and less pungent while still breaking down the fibrous cloves for a creamy dipping sauce. Serve the shrimp alongside ramekins of aioli and nam jim seafood sauce for dipping, or arrange the shrimp around the rim of a coupe glass filled with nam jim for more intense flavor.
Quintessential dish: Grilled fatty pig neck Thai chile dip. Read more about this amazing Los Angeles talent, one of the new Food & Wine Best New Chefs.
Chef Kris Yenbamroong of Night + Market and Night + Market Song in L.A. says this is one of his favorite summer treats because it's "high pleasure, low hassle." The coconut milk and sugar in the sauce that glazes the corn intensify the sweet corn flavor. Slideshow:  More Grilled Corn Recipes 
Bangkok Mall Pasta
Rating: Unrated
1
Kris Yenbamroong, the chef at L.A.'s Night + Market and Night + Market Song, calls this "mall pasta" because it reminds him of the spaghetti available in the '90s-era Italian restaurants in Bangkok's shopping plazas—places where you could find spaghetti stir-fried with ketchup on the menu. He says that the holy trinity in this dish is the salty-pungent combination of fried garlic, anchovies and chile that permeates the noodles. He cautions: "Using dry pasta is crucial because a fresh noodle won't hold up to the rigors of the hot wok." Slideshow:  More Fast Pastas