Kevin Tien

Steak and Eggs
Rating: Unrated
Ever wonder how a Japanese steakhouse, a Southern greasy spoon, and a Vietnamese breakfast spot might play on a single plate? At Himitsu in Washington, D.C., Best New Chef Kevin Tien’s Steak and Eggs revision makes it work. A dozen fried quail eggs are a rich and playful pairing for seared steak. Nuoc cham—the Vietnamese power chord of lime, chiles, and fish sauce—dresses crunchy greens. Letting mushrooms and kombu soak in soy sauce for 24 hours yields a deeply savory sauce—a drizzle of it cranks up the steak’s umami. To crack quail eggs, use a pair of small-pointed scissors to pierce the top third of each shell. Snip around the shell, and then pour eggs into a bowl.