At Bellegarde Bakery in New Orleans, baker Graison Gill is part of a generation of renegade bakers who are eschewing industrially ground white flour in favor of grinding their own flours from crops like red Ruby Lee wheat and heirloom corn. “White flour is a corpse,” says Gill. “It’s a dead, shelf-stable product. Freshly stone-milled flour is a living ingredient, full of flavor, texture, aroma, nutrition, and nuance.” Buy Bellegarde Bakery’s stone-ground flour online at bellegardebakery.com. This recipe uses yeast rather than sourdough starter, which lets the flavor of the fresh flour come through. If you can’t get Bellegarde’s flours, King Arthur whole-wheat flour will work.