Despite the highprotein rage, many restaurants haven't abandoned bread baskets; they've improved them. Las Vegas's Nobhill bakes three kinds of bread in the oven in the middle of the dining room (MGM Grand; 702-891-7777). Selections at Napa Valley's French Laundry are now being sold at Bouchon Bakery, down the street (6528 Washington St., Yountville; 707-944-8037). At Los Angeles's new Chloe, the all-white breads are stacked high on a plate (333 Culver Blvd., Playa del Rey; 310-305-4505).
Beth A. Collins