Barcelona is the birthplace of modern Spanish chocolate making; now the country's most experimental chocolate maker, Enric Rovira, has set up a fantastic eponymous shop there. His specialties include extra-bitter rajoles, named for (and designed to look like) the city's famous street tiles (Ave. Josep Tarradellas 113; 011-34-93-419-25-47). In the Gothic quarter, Formatgeria La Seu is Barcelona's best artisanal cheese store. The compact place features Spain's most exceptional small-production cheeses (c/Dagueria 16; 011-34-93-412-65-48). Lloren Petras is world famous for the wild mushrooms he sells from his Boqueria-market Fruits del Bosc stall, known by every top chef in Cataloniaand Paris and London (Rambla 91). Spain's most idiosyncratic wine shop is Vila Viniteca; at the helm is young Quim Vila, who also produces the wonderful wine Ca N'Estruc (Agullers, 7; 011-34-93-268-32-27).