Portugal Travel Guide
Restaurants pouring 80 types of gin, colonial-mansions-turned-hotels and wineries making delicious bottles with obscure grapes.
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Portugal Restaurants
Lisbon: Taberna Modern
Spanish-born owner Luis Carballo offers more than 80 different gins (on their own or with tonic), paired with ingredient-driven dishes like codfish salad with sea urchin caviar. tabernamoderna.com
Lisbon: The Decadente
Chef Nuno Bandeira de Lima serves affordable, tradition-tweaking dishes (such as slow-cooked cod with honey and almonds) in a century-old palace turned design-conscious hostel. thedecadente.pt
Oporto: The Restaurant at the Yeatman
Chef Ricardo Costa has earned a Michelin star for his refined cooking here. The 1,000-plus-bottle wine list has an encyclopedic selection of great wines from Portugal. the-yeatman-hotel.com
Oporto: Clérigos Vinhos & Petiscos
A new venture from revered chef Pedro Lemos, this Portuguese tapas spot has an ambitious by-the-glass list of local wines. clerigos.net
Portugal Hotels
Alentejo: Villa Extramuros
These five minimalist rooms have views of olive groves, oak-tree forests and castle-topped hills. The on-call cook prepares local ingredients like cod. Doubles from $172; villaextramuros.com
Vinho Verde: Carmo's Boutique Hotel
This hotel has modern lines, but the food (grilled cuttlefish) is traditional, and the goat-milk spa treatment is inspired by Cleopatra. Doubles from $245; carmosboutiquehotel.com
Lisbon: Palacio Ramalheten
Now a stunning boutique hotel, this 18th-century mansion has period details like antique copper fireplaces and blue-and-white tiles. Doubles from $124; palacio-ramalhete.com
Portugal Wineries
Dão: Quinta da Pellada
Álvaro Castro makes a range of superb Dão wines (plus a Dão-Douro wine that he makes with Niepoort). The most celebrated is from Quinta da Pellada, where grapes have been grown since the 1500s. Tastings by appointment; quintadapellada.com
Bairrada: Filipa Pato
Pato, one of the brightest young winemaking talents in Portugal, produces complex, graceful wines with local Bairrada varieties like Baga and Bical. Visitors to her small, white-walled winery in Amoreira de Gândara should be sure to try her top red, Nossa. Tastings by appointment; filipapato.net
Lisbon: Quinta do Monte d'Oiro
The owner of this estate north of Lisbon is longtime friends with star French winemaker Michel Chapoutier—a helpful connection, since the focus here is on Rhône Valley varieties like Syrah and Viognier as well as traditional Portuguese grapes. quintadomontedoiro.com
Oporto: Graham's 1890 Lodge
After a complete renovation, Graham's historic port lodge reopened to the public this past spring. Tours wind through more than 3,500 casks, some with wine dating back to the 1800s; the new Vinum restaurant has stunning views of the Douro River.grahamsportlodge.com
