From now through September, Verona's Roman arena will be the center of the universe for Verdi lovers, as the city stages a marathon festival in honor of the 100th anniversary of the composer's death. Half an hour away in the Lombardy hills is an appropriately operatic lodging for Aida addicts: Palazzo Arzaga, a two-year-old deluxe hotel. The fifteenth-century structure still has its gorgeous frescoed rooms but offers modern amenities too, such as an outpost of the famous Tuscan Saturnia spa, a one-to-one staff-to-guest ratio and three restaurants. (The milk-fed lamb served in the dining rooms is raised on the Palazzo's nearby farm, also home to some 14,000 pigs.) And, incongruously enough, Arzaga is the site of the only PGA-sanctioned golf academy in Italy (011-39-030-680-600).