Roy Yamaguchi has spent years seeking out wines that complement his cuisine, which brings together Asian flavors, Hawaiian ingredients and the French love of butter and cream. Lately, he's come to think that the best match isn't wine but sake, so he's commissioned a line crafted for its affinity with food. Y Sakés, served in the 23 Roy's restaurants around the world, are the first daiginjo sakes made in the United States. The most revered form of sake, daiginjo is also the most troublesome to brew, but Yamaguchi persuaded an Oregon firm called SakéOne (503-357-7056) to give it a try. The results are delightful: Wind is dry and restrained, Sky is rounder and more aromatic, Snow has a milky color and an off-sweet flavor, and Rain is gently spiked with ginger.