F&W honors Breggo Cellars, a new California producer making graceful, aromatic wines.
Raised in Sonoma, Doug Stewart always knew he wanted to farm. He made a fewdetours—including writing a book about farmers in the Amazon—before returninghome to launch Breggo Cellars. Today he makes subtle, powerful wines inMendocino County’s Anderson Valley, one of California’s most exciting Pinot Noir regions. In 2000, Stewart acquired 200 acres of prospective vineyard inAnderson Valley for effectively no money down (“I kept redrawing the boundariesto include all the good stuff”). Instead of waiting for the land to producegrapes, he signed contracts with top growers like Ferrington, Savoy and AlderSprings and worked with consulting winemaker Ryan Hodgins. The result is an annual 3,500 cases of Pinot Noir and aromatic whiteslike Pinot Gris and Gewürztraminer that have a remarkable cooler-climategracefulness. Now, finally, comes the farming part: Stewart planted his firstvines this summer.