Ambitious restaurants across the country are getting supergeeky about single regions, going all out for big bottles and playing a game called Blind Vine.
Freek’s Mill, Brooklyn
Sommelier Alex Alan’s list focuses almost solely on Loire Valley Chenin Blanc and Beaujolais—wines that are ideal with the vegetable-forward flavors of chef Chad Shaner’s menu. freeksmill.com
Louie’s Gen-Gen Room, San Francisco
This slinky, subterranean bar beneath Liholiho Yacht Club offers a short list of natural wines by the glass. The fun part? They’re all poured from magnums or larger bottles. liholiho yachtclub.com
Harvest Table, St. Helena, CA
At Charlie Palmer’s farm- to-table Napa Valley spot, wine director Sasha Hagenlock pours Blind Vine bottles: The diner knows only the grape variety and the price. harvesttablenapa.com