Napa Valley may still be home to California wine country's most prized real estate, but ask any young oenophile well-versed in Champagne growers and Beaujolais crus how often she drinks the home-grown juice, and you'd think the region went out of style. In fact, there's a certain tendency to associate the entire viticultural area with bombastic renditions of Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay—the score-chasing, spoofalated wines priced for expense-account dinners and marked by garish new oak and jammy fruit instead of purity and food-friendliness.
It sounds like the perfect setup for a counterculture storyline, right? A new wave of young-gun vintners enters the scene to restore Napa to its former glory and save the vineyards from their high-alcohol overlords.
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