Sherry in every style, from light manzanillas to rich olorosos, has surged in popularity lately. En rama sherries are the latest obsession: light, dry finos or manzanillas that are effectively bottled unfiltered (i.e., with some of the sherry yeast called flor still in the wine). Tangy and savory, they make spectacular aperitifs, whether alongside a simple bowl of marcona almonds or an entire tapas spread.
2014 Equipo Navazos I Think Manzanilla En Rama ($18) Winemaker Jesús Barquín ages this manzanilla under a blanket of flor for four and a half years before bottling it barely filtered. It’s nutty, exotic and bone dry.
NV La Guita Manzanilla En Rama ($19) The salty, briny flavors innate to manzanillas are accentuated in a delicious way in this brisk bottling.
2017 González Byass Tio Pepe Fino En Rama ($26) As Vicky González-Gordon of this family-owned bodega says, “Flor gives finos very distinctive notes—bread yeast, green apples, almonds.” Open this en rama and you’ll know what she’s talking about.