How to Make Paella with Ken Oringer and Jamie Bissonnette

Toro chefs Ken Oringer and Jamie Bissonnette reveal how to make epic paella.

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All right. Ready? All right now we demand the utmost silence and take this very seriously and if we don't see you taking notes you're gonna get kicked out. Yup, and we only have about 39 ingredients in each dish then, And we didn't supply recipes, so please, take voracious notes, okay. All right, so we're gonna start off, we're gonna make a couple of different things. But all of it's rooted around one of our common, favorite things that we serve at Toro's, paella. So paella's awesome, it's a great fusion of food. The Moors brought rice to Spain, and the Romans brought steel The most important things to have. [UNKNOWN] Don Barrez. If you don't have the right rice, don't make [FOREIGN], make something else. You cannot swap out the rice. Before we get started, I just want everybody to tally since you're taking recipes. Anytime Jamie says wicked, please tally, because When we were in Austin, it was about, I think it was 31 times during a like 45 minute demo, so please tally. Wicked is something everybody in Boston tends to say when they get excited. So just want everyone to be aware. [LAUGH] Oh, maybe it was a little too soon. Okay. [LAUGH] Great. Now I'll be self conscious for the rest of the day. [LAUGH] Yeah, so anyway, enough about the history of paella. That's kind of fun, it's kind of interesting, but you can read about that in a Wikipedia. We're gonna go into the nuts and bolts of making paella, all right? So, we started off with some pre-cooked onions. We like to cook them forever in olive oil till they're really tender. Remember, when you cook onions, add salt right in the beginning cuz it expunges some of the liquid and that's what makes it Really sweet. And the thing about paella, again also. Today, we're gonna make a certain style. But we love to improvise, and that's why at this paella party we're gonna do one with rice, one called fideos, with pasta. But it's something that we always wing it. You know, whatever we have in the kitchen, in the cupboards. Sometimes we'll throw chicken in it. Sometimes we use ramen seasoning. We did a barbecue from Austin, Texas with a little smoked bone marrow last month. So it's something that you don't have to follow a recipe. Anything that you love, whether it's leftover Chinese barbecued pork, you can throw it in paella. So the beauty of this is you can improvise with anything. But the really important thing to remember is make it taste good. Taste your food. That's the difference between a good cook and a great cook. Tasting your food and seasoning it as you go. Paella was traditionally made outside on fire, really low to the ground, vine clippings from the last year's grapes, From the vineyards, orange trees, pine. So you've got a lot of flavor going in and they cook it over super super hot heat. Notice I didn't say the word. [LAUGH] But so when you're making paella, don't be afraid to crank it up, you've gotta cook hot. If you have a grill, fire it up, cook it outside. If you don't You're going to start off on high heat. Put your pan on, throw your onions. We threw a little bit of chorizo in. And as it starts to warm up and pop, we're just going to continue to add ingredients and let it develop flavor. At home I don't like making stock unless I know I'm going to cook at home for a few days in a row, otherwise it just goes to waste. So I'm gonna teach you the way I make a [UNKNOWN] home on a whim without using stock, and we're gonna use a couple of other ingredients just to make it wicked delicious. [LAUGH] ****. There we go. There we go. [APPLAUSE] All right, Jamie mentioned also in Spain and Valencia and other areas, it's generally a man's thing to cook [FOREIGN]. So if you do go to Spain, really take a look because of the high fires that they light You can see, actually with the women also, is all the men below their knees have no hair. All the fire just burns all the hair off below the knees. The probably have hair on their feet. But they don't have hair from their knees to their ankles. So really take a look at that when you go to [UNKNOWN], really look at it. They have burn marks all over the place as well. I added a little bit of [INAUDIBLE] scallions in our papaya. The top part of the scallion, the green part we cut, we'll save that to garnish on top cause it's nice and fresh. But we took the white part that can be a little bit more pungent and we're going to cook that in, we also added garlic. So now we just have a ton of olive oil, some turriso, onions, garlic, and scallions. We're going to add a little bit of salt, move it around. [BLANK_AUDIO] In paella, the most important is the paella pan, so please make sure you invest. All-Clad makes an amazing one. Make sure it's heavy, heavy duty, and just make sure again when you have a large party and you're cooking for six people, eight people, 12 people, 20 people The larger the pan, it's still the same way to make it. So you can cook for 40 people just as easily as you can cook for two people if you have a large pan, enough space to do it. And don't be afraid of your oil, you wanna use good olive oil. If you don't wanna use olive oil and you wanna use fat, you can totally use that as well, but olive oil adds some of the best flavor because paia, once you add the water or the liquid or stock or the water, whatever you want to the rice. It comes to a simmer very quickly, you wanna cook it wicked hot, God damn it. [LAUGH] Yes! Yes! Yes. So you wanna cook it pretty hot the whole time so it's almost boiling, and what happens is the fat from the olive oil emulsifis in kind of like when you make [UNKNOWN] ramen and all the fat, everything you've ever learned From traditional, high-end haute French cooking, don't let it boil because the fat emulsifies into your stock. You want that because that's what makes paella creamy. And when the paella's done also you'll see, hopefully with the altitude we don't know how long it's gonna take to cook this paella but at the end you see a little bit of olive oil resting on the top and that's when you know it's gonna be super, super tasty They're wicked tasty, sorry. That doesn't count. [LAUGH] So. So the last thing I just put in is soffritto. You can make this out of any vegetable, but the one that we use for most consistency at the restaurant is, we just take awesome tomato paste. And we cook it down with olive oil and onions until it just changes color from being that dark red to almost a little bit pink while it's hot and then cool it. You could also if you're like, oh man that's a lot of extra work to do ahead of time, and you want to just grab some tomato paste and throw a dollop of that in there, You can, but you just wanna cook it out a little bit more. And you could even use fresh tomatoes. You can take cherry tomatoes and just kind of smash them a little bit and throw them in there. But just make sure you cook it until it's completely dry so you have that really nice concentrated flavor. [NOISE] You really want to cook paella hot and fast, and once the liquid's added, it only takes about 20 minutes at just below a simmer to cook. And you want it to kinda stick on the bottom. You want it to burn, and that's called socarrat. And that socarrat is kind of like, orange and brown and yellow and a little bit black. At first glance, you're like, man, somebody burned my paella, but that's not true. That's the part that gives it a lot of flavor. And you want to let it rest for about 10 to 15 minutes after you're done cooking it, before you eat it. Like a chocolate chip cookie, you can't pull it right off the pan when it comes out of the oven, otherwise it's soggy and it falls. The paella gets crispy as it sits. And it also absorbs the liquid, which is what you want. So it'll carryover cook For like another, again, five minutes or seven minutes. And when it's too hot it doesn't have all the flavor that you really want also. Kind of when you drink white wine, for instance, when it's too cold you relay can't taste the nuance of the wine. So with the payaya, if it's too hot you can't taste the pimenton and you can't taste the chorizo. So when it's just kind of warmish hot it's a lot better than burning your mouth hot. So we're gonna add a little bit of saffron. Saffron's crazy expensive, but you can say it again. You're really quick. This guy has really impressed me [UNKNOWN]. He was scared of heights. Yesterday he went on [UNKNOWN] no problem. Now he's gotten over the whole wicked thing. It's really been an amazing weekend for you. [LAUGH] Turning over a new leaf. So we're adding a little bit of saffron. And remember when using saffron, saffron's a lot like kissing. Too much tongue makes it uncomfortable. [LAUGH] Too much saffron kills the flavor of your dish. [LAUGH] It's true. [LAUGH] So we're adding the rice. And another thing, quick tip of reality. When you're cooking and you wanna keep a pan hot, as you add ingredients, you can't just keep adding like oh yeah, it's hot, I'm adding, I'm adding. You're cooling down your pan, and you go from sauteing, to steaming and poaching. You don't want that. You want the pan to get hot. It's called recovery time. Anytime you add something to a pan, you have to let the heat to the bottom recover. So we added the rice. We wanna coat it with the fat and we really wanna let the pan come back up so that when we add the liquid, it goes. And take a look also how, again, the surface area. How the rice isn't completely covering the bottom. You wanna make sure, again, that you have some pan space so that you can coat each of the grains of rice, which will separate them later on as they cook. So you won't have a clumpy mass of. Of just **** rice. He swore. Oh, sorry. Oh, it smells so good already. Yeah, it already smells great. All right. So my trick at home since I don't oftentimes have stock, I don't buy canned stock because I never use all of it or I forget to use it. But I always have canned seafood from Spain. I collect it. Don't laugh. Canned seafood from Spain is phenomenal. So unbelievable. There are restaurants like, what is it, Quimet? Quimet, in Barcelona, that specialize in it. These are canned sardines from Galicia, and they're packed with olive oil and liquid, so we're going to add just a little bit of that. And that'll give a little basis. And then we could take out some of the fish itself and just kinda let it break up as it cooks. But please don't use water packed tuna or water packed salmon or anything like that. Really go with the olive oil packed Spanish shellfish. Clams you can use, razor clams you can use, sardines, anchovies. Mussels. Octopus [UNKNOWN] [BLANK_AUDIO] And Jamie collects a lot of these, also, which, it's a passion of both of ours. When we have friends come into the restaurants, or friends coming into our apartments, and we have a little barbecue, we always open up a can of sardines or something like that, throw it on a plate, little cracked black pepper, little bit of lemon juice, and drink that with some [UNKNOWN] and that's a perfect start to a Spanish barbecue. The 85 10th Avenue is Toro New York's address if anybody's in Spain and you happen to want a 74 package. [LAUGH] Canned seafood. Please do. That'll make me [UNKNOWN] happy. But this can of sardines again, some cans can be 30, 40, $50. I mean, so that's how much pride they take in Really getting the best of the best shellfish. Canning it, they've been doing it the same way for hundreds of hundreds of years and it's just amazing just how these conservers, which are what they're called. So delicious. So one thing, when you're salting at home, don't ever just do this. It's no good. All your salt sticks to one area. Get in the habit of salting high and salting everywhere. That way it falls evenly like snow so you don't get snowdrift. Nobody wants a snowdrift of salt in a salad or on a burger, you know, like man, that's wicked bad, you don't want that. << How many do we have so far, guys? << Four < Perfect. So now we add our stock. You got the seafood out of the cooler? Yeah, no problem. [SOUND] All right, this is my favorite kind of stock. You can get it everywhere. This stock is called pipe stock. It comes right out of the faucet. [LAUGH] So, we're going to add some seafood to this and we're going to add the seafood in the order that it cooks. We're adding some clams now, because as the clams open up, they're going to add a lot of flavor. That juice is going to flavor the water so you're going to end up with a really delicious paella. Then we'll add some carabineros, these awesome scarlet shrimp from Valencia, We love those! and then muscles at the end. You don't want to add everything at once, because what will happen is, it'll all poach and you'll end up with gummy, chewy over cooked seafood. The clams are great because they do take a little bit of time to cook. And now, this is the boring part. There's really nothing to do from here, but pop open a really good bottle of wine, put on a great record and enjoy some time. So. All right, what do you think. You ready? We can do that. Yeah. So when you're making paella you know, outside, having fun in the field. You don't want to have glassware out there. If anybody was up at the top of the mountain at the party last night you can probably count about 20 glasses got broken because we're all clumsy chefs. We've all got too many thumbs, it's just terrible. I think Johnny Zini broke about ten glasses himself. 100%. So what you like to use in really fun atmospheres, and if you're gonna be outside, so you don't have to have glassware, you have a porron. Gail. [LAUGH] Okay, so it's porron time guys. Anybody know what these are? [APPLAUSE] Okay, so when you're have a barbecue, or a tailgate or whatever in Spain Everybody drinks from a perone, where you don't have to worry. Sometimes you go to a party you go oh, who's glass is that? Oh that guy has no teeth, I don't want to drink out of his glass. You end up holding you glass for you know, 15 minutes, you don't want to hold it but you're a little scared. So in Spain, everybody drinks out of perones at tailgates or at parties. The only rule is that the mouth shall never touch the tip. Okay I think that was one of ten commandments. [LAUGH] And I remember somebody's father saying that right to me before prom. [LAUGH] Woah. [BLANK_AUDIO] Sorry, Dad. [LAUGH] All right, so cheers. Cheers. The way you do a parana is you wanna start off close and you wanna pull it away from your mouth and Have fun. Here we go. [LAUGH] [APPLAUSE] All right. All right, so let's, anybody in the audience want to give this a crack? All right. Want to walk around front? All right, let's queue it up. And let's get rolling here. One second. [NOISE] There you are. [NOISE] [UNKNOWN] I'm sure he can. Or somebody else can. Whoo! [LAUGHTER] Yeah! Whoo! All right! Whoo! Gotta get the height. Yeah! Straighten the arm. Straighten the arm. Nice! There we go. There we go. Nice. Well done, Brother. Well done. All right. Yeah. So the mouth did not touch the tip, just like Jamie's prom date. All right. Nice. There you are. Just pass it back. [MUSIC] Whoo! All right. [LAUGH] How fun is this music? Whoo! [MUSIC] Now that you've all come to the paella communion. [SOUND] [APPLAUSE] [SOUND] Come on Alana, let's go. [LAUGH] Come on. [MUSIC] [LAUGH] Woo, oh yeah. [APPLAUSE] Oh. Woo. Come on, guys. We gotta finish, now. [MUSIC] Yeah, Mat,there we go, Mat! Come on! [CLAPPING] Yeah! Woohoo! Woohoo! Woohoo! [CLAPPING] Yeah! Come on, Matt! [APPLAUSE] Crush it Matt. [APPLAUSE] Yeah [APPLAUSE] All right yeah Matt. [LAUGH] [MUSIC] All right. Salsa with the gooey duck first? I'll do the chorizo real quick. Okay, yeah. Well done, guys. Beautiful. All right! [CLAPPING] All right! Now the party's started. [APPLAUSE] Now the party's started. If anybody's ready, we still have a little more cabo left, so just let us know. Okay, back to reality. Just kidding. But this is perfect. This the way the Spanish entertain. They know how to live life. They drink. They cook. They just do other after drinking a lot. But But that's what you should do when you're having barbecue.. It should just be fun like this. So I threw away, not threw away, but I removed the wooden spoon that we were using to stir this because now we don't want to stir it. To get even cooking, you just wanna kinda rotate this over and over again. We're leaving it on a high, you can see, just below a simmer, just about a simmer. It's bubbling away and that's locking in all the flavor. We still have a little bit of time before we're gonna add the carab. Actually we can add the carabineros in a minute. Let's go with a little chorizo, James. So, Kitchenaid provided us with all this cool stuff so I thought it'd be fun to case some homemade Iberico fat chorizo that we made this morning. So we've got some chorizo [UNKNOWN] or the chorizo meat itself and we're gonna case it and braid it. And that's the kinda stuff that we would use If you can see it over here, it already sat for a night in the paella and in the fideos. So, just a quick demo. We got some of the smaller sheep casings or kind of, some people call it the breakfast sausage casings. And we're gonna turn the machine on. But the thing about sausage, too, don't be intimidated by it. A lot of people are intimidated by it because of the casings. They feel that Oh, gross, I'm touching this. It's slimy. It's this and that. But again, sausage is basically just a seasoned hamburger. It's like meatloaf that you're just putting in a sausage casing. And if you do have a problem with the casing, you don't even have to case it. You can just saute or brown the sausage meat. Just marinate it overnight. With garlic and seasonings, and again, it's so easy to just bang out. And there are so many great charcuterie and sausage cookbooks out there. Ryan Farr from 4505 Meats, Chris Cosentino does one. Charcuterie Cookbook by Jamie Bissonnette. That one's pretty good too. [LAUGH] Eh, it's okay. [LAUGH] Jacques Pepin's is better, I think. Well, anything Jacques Pepin is inherently gonna be better than anything we ever do.>> [LAUGH ]>> [LAUGH] He's a god among chefs! So, casing a sausage is super easy. It's like making a balloon animal, right? You've just gotta fill it up and hope it doesn't burst. Wait, you make balloon animals on weekends? No, not at all. Oh, okay, good. But I will. [LAUGH] Okay, so while Jamie's casing that, we're gonna move over to a little bit of the fideos, which will be a paella made with pasta instead of rice. You want some chorizo? Yeah, let's throw some in. Okay. Start browning a little tarriso and what we're going to put in it also is. Anybody know what this is? Anybody from the Pacific Northwest? Yeah. Gooey duck. All right so this is a gooey duck clam. Okay so What we've done so far Jamie and I both love. And in Spain shell fish is always king. So again we have clams, we have mussels. So I figured with these we would use a little gooey duck clam. The belly is amazing. We're from New England so the fried clams are something we love. And the clam from the bellies Are the things that we enjoy more than anything. So,what we do here is we put this in boiling water for about 45 seconds and then you peel this condom. [CROSSTALK] One side we're putting them on, on side we're taking it off. Want to hold the balls while I peel the condom off, Jamie? There we go. Okay. All right. So. Thank you, this will be our first and last demo in Aspen, we're not getting invited back. Wait. Hey, Jamie, there is just one ball on this. All right. All right. All right. So anyway. You take off. This is actually the belly part right here. And we're gonna peel it. This is the belly, and this is the neck. So the neck we like to use for sashimi. The belly we're gonna just saute with a little bit of the chorizo to throw in the [UNKNOWN]. All right, thanks, Shannon. All right, okay, so with the belly we're just gonna cut it into kind of big chunks cuz again, this has a really great texture. It's similar to octopus where it's a little bit chewy but still tender at the same time. So I'm gonna throw a little bit in here. And with fideos unlike paella, it cooks a lot faster because we're using angel hair pasta or fideo which is a pasta that they make in Spain, which is again very very thin. So Gene, you want to give me a little Karate chip on this. Okay, one more please. [SOUND] Okay, so with this, you could break it into any shape that you want, okay? Small pieces, big pieces, they don't have to be the same. The beauty of this is you could just kind of throw it in there and break it up. And it's kind of like, I remember when I was a kid, Rice-A-Roni, where they would always have that vermicelli in there. This is kinda like a really great version of Rice-A-Roni. It's true. Look at that, oh look at him, seasoning like dandruff I like it. So we're gonna pop the pasta in there and same as with the rice we want to make sure that we coat it with olive oil. So throw, do we have a little more of olive oil James? There throw a little more olive oil in there. And again, this is not gonna take about 25 minutes to cook like the paia so this we wanna make sure we're going on high heat again, same as with that. Watch the noodles chef. Now we really have Rice-A-Roni. Look how good that. Look at that emulsification with that sardine oil. Yeah, this is starting to come along really well. Oh, man, beautiful, beautiful. Okay, so we're gonna stir this. Coat all the grain so again we don't get a clump of pasta. And what we're gonna do is throw in a little bit of sofrito again also. And this you can really feel free to improvise on as well. You're gonna throw some saffron. And with saffron, it's a oil-soluble, fat-soluble herb, so it's best to either use it At the beginning when you saute in the olive oil, brings out the most flavor in it. Poke that in a little bit. [BLANK_AUDIO] I'm adding some more sardines to this cuz I'm getting bored. [LAUGH] See, that's a problem with us. We never know when to stop. We'll always just keep adding ingredients- [LAUGH] You know, we'll have something laying around and we'll say, oh let's throw this in. Let's throw this in. We never know when to stop. [SOUND] Okay. So sauteing that. We're going to add a little bit. And this is something, again we go to the farmer's market all the time. You guys have amazing produce here and farmer's markets are so huge everywhere now. We just picked up some pole beans. Romano beans. And we just kind of break them into abstract shapes again. Jamie and I are done with the fancy knife cuts anymore. We just like to kind of. Unless you're looking for a position in our restaurants. Then we demand that you know how to do it. [LAUGH] And to make a perfect omelet too. Okay. So we're first gonna be using there as well. [BLANK_AUDIO] All right. Little pimento. Pimento is smoked paprika from Lebara. So it's like, Spicy and smoky. You can also do sweet. If you don't like spicy, you could totally do the dolce one. But if it says picante, you want. That one is really pungent. That's the number one ingredient in really great chorizo. And pimenton is really something that you should seek out because the best ones do come from Spain. It's a vital chorizo. It's in all sorts of homemade chorizos. It's amazingly versatile. It doesn't have that super high heat like certain hot paprikas do from Hungary or other areas. Really amazingly flavorful. Matt, that is looking good. I added the carboneros right as Caleb started the fideos. I'm letting those kind of poach. Because they're in the shell and there's so much flavor in the heads, I really want those to cook and expunge some more of their liquid to flavor the rice. The clams just started opening. I added the mussels now, and I can see that the rice is. Oh my god, that's really delicious. Dude why aren't you saying wicked anymore? It's really like starting to affect me here. We made a bet, I'm not losing it. So now if you can see here, it starting to reduce. When I move with a small spoon, not a big spoon we're not stirring. You can see when it drags it's starting to really boil hard when it hits the bottom of the pan, that;s g=reat If it's boiling and you pull it and it's sticking already and the muscles aren't opened, reduce your heat just a little bit. Chances are, I mean I have a crappy apartment, I'm sure you guys have really nice homes. [LAUGH] Must better gas then I have. Wait, what are you trying to say here? That I have a **** apartment. I think Bobby Flay has a nice apartment. I'm sure he does. I can't get my stove hot enough to have to turn it down when I make payaya at home. And I make payaya a lot. It's one of my favorite things to make when I'm trying to cook for friends cuz it's easy. It's one pot, it's one pan to clean up, it's delicious. Okay, so with the fideos now, The ratios are a lot different, you know, cooking angel hair pasta than cooking rice. So what were gonna do now is just kind of add a little bit of stock and this right here is chicken stock and you can, again you can use pipe stock like Jamie likes. You can use canned chicken broth, you can use anything. But just make sure you just Cover the pasta. Okay? Because what your going to want is the pasta will get a little bit creamy and then on the top it will stay a little bit crunchy. So add a little bit of that in. I wanted mine to look prettier. You know Instagram is a really big thing for us. Dude you stole my fava beans. Come on. I stole his fava beans. Adding like legumes, peas, fava beans right towards the end of it, so they just cook through, you don't want them to turn brown, also adds more flavor. And you can do this. We do a vegetarian and a vegan one at the restaurant. We just build flavors throughout by adding kohlrabi and cauliflower and broccoli, and you end up with all these different vegetable flavors that are so great. You serve it to any meat lover and they wouldn't even know that there's no meat in it. Yeah, that's looking good. Coming along pretty well. Okay, all right. We add a little bit of pepper, a little bit of salt. And now again the clam belly is the gooey [UNKNOWN] braising. And we're just gonna kinda watch this and just make sure the pasta cooks al dente, just like cooking a normal angel hair pasta [BLANK_AUDIO] Okay. [BLANK_AUDIO] All right. And then with the belly, or with the neck, what we're gonna do is cut it as sashimi. Which Jamie and I are both obsessed with Japanese ingredients, Japanese fish. ANd we love the texture contrast of having a braised belly and then having the crunchy sashimi neck of [UNKNOWN] which is what it's called in Japanese. We're gonna put a little bit of that on top where it's just like Nobu with that new style sashimi which everybody loves. We just ate at [UNKNOWN] the other day it's phenomenal after all these years it's still amazing. But it just kind of like warms the fish and opens up the pores of it and then we're going to put on a little bit of olive oil and a little bit of seasoned aioli, which garlic mayonnaise, which they use all over Spain and put that on top. So we're gonna kind of have a creamy spicy little bit of Midori sashimi on top that's gonna have a really great contrast. So, as you guys may have seen while Kay was talking about that, I'm moving some of my clams around. You can see the hot pots. Just like on a grill when you're grilling a steak, you know where it's hotter. In the pan, where it's hotter, that's where the clams are opening. So if your clams aren't opening and are opening, move them around. Take one that's opened, and put it to a spot where it's not simmering quite as hard. That way, the clam doesn't overcook. Take one that's not opened, and put it closer. I think the [UNKNOWN] Is coming. [LAUGH] [LAUGH] I just watched the new Jurassic Park movie and it scared the **** outta me. [LAUGH] Well, if the T-Rex is coming, I'm drinking a Perrone. [LAUGH] [SOUND] So another thing whenever you're cooking pastry or savory listen to your reductions listen to your food. Look at it. You can hear that the bubbles are snapping quicker because there's more elasticity in them right? Wait first he hears a T rex now he's listening to his food?>> I got a lot going on up here man I got a lot going on. All right here. There's dispenseries.>> Let me chill down for. [LAUGH] [LAUGH] It's legal [LAUGH] But listen to it. If you hear the bubbles are bursting really like big. And you look down, the bigger the bubbles, the more there's caramelization happening. It's easy when you're working with Johnny Luzzini because he can explain how that works with caramel and sweets and sugars cuz he's the best pastry chef. I don't know how that **** works. But in savory cooking. Does anybody know Johnny Luzzini the pastry legend? Right here Johnny. [APPLAUSE] Very good friend of ours. [APPLAUSE] But when you're cooking at home and you those reductions. You hear in marinara, when it starts to bubble really hard. It's concentrating and that's when it's going to start to burn. The cool thing about paella is when you hear that that doesn't mean turn it down, it means shake it. Look to see where it's starting to stick. Move it around because you want that carmelization. And that's how we're gonna build the foundation, the socarrat in the bottom. And again you can see the starches in the rice starting to come out, they're emulsifying with the fats, with the liquid and, I don't know if you guys can see how again, now you have a really viscous Liquid which is really going to form that amazing sukara. And then again in Asian cultures as well in the bottom of the rice pan people love that crunchy crunchy rise. It's really important now that you pay attention to make sure that you have the sukara covering the complete bottom of the pan as well. And there is a difference between sukara and suka burnt. All right, if you're not gonna drink this I will. Go for it. [BLANK_AUDIO] Come on Johnny, come up here. Johnny, let's go. Come on Johnny. All right. Johnny Uzzini guys, you should have seen the jacket he had on yesterday. It was like a solar panel for the entire town of Aspen If we had hairspray and you were standing next to him in the sun, your hair would have ignited. [LAUGH] [INAUDIBLE] All right, [INAUDIBLE] [APPLAUSE] Oh, sorry. Sorry, Johnny. [LAUGH] [APPLAUSE] Here we go, hold on, we've got towels. [LAUGH] See, and that way, a lot of times people pour for themselves. But if you really want to bust somebody's balls, you could pour it and then have somebody kind of like give you a little tap. And you accidentally move your wrist a little bit. Works out perfectly. But don't do it when you're at Toro. Our insurance fricken hates it. Okay, so with the [UNKNOWN] now also, you could see kind of the same liquid effect, how you have that really [UNKNOWN] liquid. It's a [INAUDIBLE]. And again, the pasta is absorbing it. And a lot of times in that too, I think Kenji was gonna come. Is Kenji in the audience here? No, Kenji, this guy knows more about food science than like anybody on Earth. But Now I think a lot of people did some studies where if you cook pasta with less water and treat it more like this, it cooks even faster and obviously has a little more flavor. The way of boiling pasta as the Italians have been doing it for hundreds of years in a ton of water isn't as important as it used to be. Toward the end I took the rest of the sardines I added a little bit of raw garlic. I added a little bit of olive oil and I added some chopped scallions and I'm making a little vinaigrette. So kind of like an- Oh, nice. Emulsified fish mayonnaise, using the fish to kinda break it up and emulsify instead of an egg yolk and we're gonna spread that all over the top. A lot of times paia is served with different sauces. It can be served with anything from traditional aioli to a rui to. Romesco like that almond and dried chili and olive oil sauce that you see in the [UNKNOWN] country but it's really nice also just by itself. I mean, little squeeze of lime, it's pretty good. You're gonna like this one. Pretty sure you're gonna like it. I better like it. Man, how many paellas have we made over the years together. I can't count that high. More payayas than I've said wicked today. Dude, that is wicked **** awesome. See. [LAUGH] [APPLAUSE] Man, that's like I think the best payaya that Jamie's ever made. Oh, man, that is ridiculous. Might have to put this on the menu at Toro. It is on the menu at Toro. With the sardines? No, not with the sardines. Oh, it's so good. Okay, so now I'm gonna add the fava beans again also because this is almost done. [BLANK_AUDIO] And we're gonna let these just kind of warm into the pasta. [INAUDIBLE] I just chopped up some of these pole beans and threw them on there, that's it. I'm just grabbing everything on the stage and throwing it in there. Actually let me see what's in the fridge. I wouldn't mind throwing a couple other things in here too. You can see the rice is now plump, it's not nice and creamy. So unlike risotto where you want to shake and agitate it to release the starch to make it creamy, if you do that with kalaspara or bomba rice There's similar styles. There's similar fat, short-grain rice. But, if you do that with calasparra, they burst. They make, basically, like a really weird kanji. Have you ever heard of that? Overcooked rice porridge. It's not very pleasant. The [UNKNOWN] happens way too fast. It scorches. It tastes terrible. So not stirring. Letting the rice go. I mean, the hardest part about cooking paella for guys like [UNKNOWN] and I are we like to put our fingers and touch everything and with paella you get to a certain point where you just kind of have to let it go. That's why we get drunk on the Peron. [LAUGH] Okay, so we're just adding some herbs to finish over here. Also some chives. Add a little thyme into the [UNKNOWN] [BLANK_AUDIO] Okay, and you can see big pieces of chives, we don't have to do any fancy knife cuts. It is a beautifully flavored onion, we don't have to do anything super fancy to it. You wanna use basil or anything Jame, or are you good? No, I'm good. All right Sometimes you've got to know when to say when with ingredients in paella. Wait is that Kenny Rogers? No. I think it was a PSA. So now you eat with your eyes, right. When you do this at home, take if you've got whole shrimp Carabineros or prawns, pull them out so you can see them. Pull some of the muscles out so you can see those. Having that aesthetic, kind of different contrasts and levels in the paella make it a little bit more interesting, but. Hold on a second. What, what, what? I gotta take a picture of that. That is, I'm telling you, that is the nicest paella I've ever seen you make. [BLANK_AUDIO] Photo bomb! Sweet!That s beautiful. Came out great! Can't get over it. Ok,so now ,again you see the liquid pretty much the same pace on both of these. So ,this one We're just gonna turn it off now and let it absorb. And what they do in Spain also at this point a lot of times is they'll pop this inside of a broiler or they'll really crank up a fire. And really get it to crisp up on top. There'll be a lot of evaporation and on top of the pot so it will really get crunchy and give you the two different contrasts of flavor. When I make this at home, I blast my oven at like 400 degrees and turn the convection on. Or like Kayo said, if you don't have a broiler And I love to. At this point for me, I love throwing things like little dollops of green curry right out of a can or little pieces of mayonnaise and letting that kind of broil and darken and blacken and give it more texture and more flavor. Okay. So little scallions. And then we're gonna just drizzle on a little bit more olive oil, because. We're both obsessed with olive oil. And when you're using olive oil, don't just look at, a lot of people look at the price tag, like yeah, it's more expensive, it's better. Pick up the bottle, take a look. Look for a harvest date and look for a varietal. Look for what kind of olive was in it Ask questions. Don't settle for just extra virgin olive oil can mean a lot of different things. You want first press extra virgin olive oil. You want it to be single varietal, 90% of the time. You want to see an origin from to a little town. And you want to see when it was harvested because it has different potencies. As they get older they definitely lessen in flavor, lessen in texture. You want olive oil that has that Unctuous, like fatty and peppery flavor. I love Arbequina olive oil. So peppery. And again, with like sardines and things like that, even if you open them up and you eat the sardines Save the oil. Because again, they have so much oil. Some shellfish have been in these things for three years, five years, seven years, ten years, and they really develop a lot of [UNKNOWN] flavor. Which is really great to be able to add, again as a finishing oil or something like that. When you're making, whether it be a piece of grilled fish, or [UNKNOWN] or [UNKNOWN] or anything. It's great to marinate So take the oil I've got. Marinade cucumbers and tomatoes and red onion, let it sit out while you're grilling your steaks and dump that over the top. It's awesome. With some [UNKNOWN] yogurt. Yeah, it's great. Okay. Here we are if you guys wanna take a quick look. Could you see it? Everybody see from there? I'm gonna shake the pan and you're gonna see all the rice kinda moving evenly. But you can see the sides it's not. So I can tell that like a pie shell, that I've got a custard in the middle and I've got the caramelized, crispy shell in the bottom. Okay, and then- And if you're nervous and you wanna double check, second guess yourself, can you guys see that? You can see that. Oh, perfect. Looks like a wafer. Looks like a cracker. Hey, hold on a second. And you scrape that. [NOISE] And that's where all that magic happens. [LAUGH] Magic, magic. Great. [SOUND] Dude, great cook. [CROSSTALK] You can cook. Okay I learned it from watching you chef. I learned it from watching you. [LAUGH] Oh, I think I'm blushing. [LAUGH] [LAUGH] Okay, guys. So then with this we're going to add just a bit of aioli. And if you don't have aioli, which is the garlic mayonnaise of Spain, you can just use Hellman's you can use anything. And just kind of top a couple of dollops on there. And let's kind of give almost like In French cooking, when they had monte au beurre, where they finished dishes with butter to give richness, in Spain, we can just go a little bit of a, get a really nice delicious, creamy fattiness just with little dollops of alioli. Is that Paleo? [LAUGH] Boy, from T-rex to Paleo, I love it. That's about all I know from history. So, [LAUGH] that looks amazing. And then, we'll just go a little bit of [UNKNOWN] on top. [BLANK_AUDIO] And then, we're gonna put the [FOREIGN] Sashimi just kind of scatter that around. [BLANK_AUDIO] Maybe we should put this on the menu. Maybe we should put that on the menu. Dad, remember to put this on the menu. Okay, there we are. So just like we said before, you wanna let these rest before you dig in. [APPLAUSE]
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How to Make Paella with Ken Oringer and Jamie Bissonnette


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