One of my favorite dining memories is from eating at a trendy restaurant in Amsterdam many years ago: After a rather avant-garde dinner, the waiter delivered a humble, hand-wrapped fruitcake with the bill. I ate my parting gift in bed the next morning, feeling grateful and thinking that all restaurants should be so generous.   Lately, they seem to be catching on. In recent years, the end-of-meal souvenir has become increasingly pervasive in fine dining establishments—signaling, perhaps, another nail in the coffin of stuffy restaurant culture. Instead of trying to wow you with service à la russe and perfectly aloof waiters, more and more restaurant owners want to make you feel at home—creating a personal connection between diners and their dinners. The gifts, according to Eleven Madison Park’s Will Guidara, are just a little something extra for their guests to remember them by.     “We want to provide the most delicious food and gracious hospitality we can offer, and if we're able to connect with the guests a little more—make them smile or laugh a few more times through the meal—well, then we've succeeded,” he said.     So what are the restaurants jumping on this trend? Food & Wine talked to star chefs and restaurateurs around the country about how and why they choose their special end-of-meal treats. —Hannah Walhout

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