Sometimes, the greatest things are the ones that were never supposed to exist.
So what you should understand first about Kato, which serves wonderful seafood-centric tasting menus in West Los Angeles, is that its 25-year-old, self-taught chef Jon Yao never planned to be here.
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He never intended to be here, in this nondescript strip mall that you could drive past repeatedly without spotting the miracle of a destination restaurant hidden inside.