Culver City is where Josef Centeno, the chef who dominates downtown Los Angeles with his wonderful and eclectic restaurant empire (Bäco Mercat, Bar Ama, Orsa & Winston, Ledlow, P.Y.T.), opened BäcoShop in March.
BäcoShop, which serves Centeno’s signature bäcos with steak, shrimp, chicken, pork and eggplant on puffy bread, is something the chef hopes will grow into a collection of fast-casual spots. So, what is a “bäco,” exactly? Is it a sandwich, a taco, a gyro or a hybrid of all three?