An Insider's Guide to Florence

© Ilaria Costanzo
The Oltrarno ("beyond the Arno") neighborhood might be the last overlooked pocket of the city, worth exploring for its artisan workshops, indie cafés and chic fashion boutiques. 

Quelle Tre

© Ingrid B

The Scardigli sisters design colorful clothing and accessories, which they sell in this hybrid shop and lounge. quelletre.com

Soprarno Suites

This small and charming hotel, in a 16th-century palazzo, reflects the owners’ affection for flea market and salvage yard finds. Most of the guest rooms have high frescoed ceilings and oversize windows.From $200; soprarnosuites.com

Marina Calamai

The artist and former fashion designer creates dessert-themed sculptures, paintings, hats and jewelry. marinacalamai.it

Berberé Craft Pizza & Beer

Farro, einkorn and other house-ground flours make for superb pies, topped with spicy ’nduja and more inventive options. www.berberepizza.it

© Francesco Lastrucci

Ditta Artigianale Coffee

This modern café encourages lingering over coffee, American-style, rather than drinking on the run as the Italians do. Choose from Aeropress, siphon and pour-over brews. dittaartigianale.it

Vivanda

This cozy, slow food–minded wine bar focuses on organic and biodynamic wines with a list of more than 100 bottles. vivandafirenze.it

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