"Egalitarian, raw and delicious.” This is how Paris-based wine blogger Aaron Ayscough describes one of his favorite restaurants, Aux Deux Amis, on the up-and-coming Rue Oberkampf. But he could also be describing the natural wines that have riveted the city’s young trendsetters. The heart of the action is a three-mile stretch in the 10th and 11th arrondissements, between the Gare du Nord and the Place de la Bastille.
 The vibe at these places is convivial and even rowdy, with customers sometimes standing elbow to elbow and spilling out into the street. The food can be playful, too, but the chefs—some already famous, others on the rise—obsess about the purity of their ingredients just as natural winemakers do. They create dishes full of personality that pair beautifully with the maverick wines on offer. 
In the city’s edgy northeast, a new wave of bars and 
bistros has embraced the renegade spirit of the 
natural-wine movement. Here’s where to taste the best.—Carson Demmond

Food & Wine

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