I lived in and around Emilia-Romagna’s capital for three years and saw its markets groan with every single good thing in season.
Where to Eat:
Ristorante Diana. Lunch here is one of the greatest experiences. Try the classic salumi, like culatello, and a trio of pasta: tortellini, tagliatelle and lasagna.
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Trattoria Battibecco. The rigatoni with canocchia (mantis shrimp) is mind-altering.