Thirty minutes west of Positano, our launch sidled up to a rickety wooden dock. Stepping off the boat, we were met by Peppino De Simone and his daughter Antonia, who greeted us like old friends, even though it was our first visit. This, we learned, is how everyone is welcomed to Lo Scoglio.
Set on a pier above a black-pebble beach in the village of Marina del Cantone, at the far western edge of the Amalfi Coast, the restaurant was founded in 1958 by Peppino’s parents and is still a family affair. His daughters run the day-to-day of the business, but their father remains a constant presence—the happy and ever-hungry patriarch. Circulating the open-air dining room, he’ll offer guests samples of his favorite bites: ripe figs from the family farm; a swipe of his olive oil on crusty bread; a sea urchin straight from Campania’s pristine waters.
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With a grin and a trusty pocketknife, he’ll shuck you a glistening tartufo di mare—a tiny clam the size of a quarter—to which he adds only a drop of Amalfi lemon juice. You’ll knock it back, all brine and joy, and realize at that moment why you came.