Pizza may be a national food of Italy but there is no national pizza of Italy. Consensus is limited to a single point: My pizza is better than yours.
When I asked Neapolitan food writer Vincenzo D’Antonio what he thought of the pizza in Rome he replied succinctly: “I’m lucky I don’t live in Rome.”
Support for a local pizza style can be ingrained, like unconditional loyalty to the Chicago Cubs. No kind of pizza is quite like the one you grew up with. That’s maybe why some Americans feel conflicted about the pizza they try in the old country. So what if Sicilian pizza in Palermo is more authentic than its Italian-American adaptation in Boston? It’s not quite their pizza.