Occasionally, an urban renewal project gets things right. Such is the case with this 18th-century military barracks turned cultural center, now the heart of the Conde Duque neighborhood. Inside, a small but excellent permanent collection of modern contemporary art is supplemented by rotating exhibits.
Insider Tip: The large internal courtyard hosts summertime concerts by musicians of all kinds, from Erykah Badu to Paul Anka to string quartets.
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