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L.A.’s Mexican-food snobs like to scoff at fajitas and puffy tacos. But chef Josef Centeno is changing perceptions of Tex-Mex cuisine with this inspired follow-up to his hit Bäco Mercat. At Bar Amá, his chile-rubbed, slow-roasted goat and frito pie with lengua chile con carne are perfect with one of the bar’s rare mezcals. bar-ama.com.