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The only indication of what's behind an unassuming door in Tokyo's Akasaka business district is the word Takazawa etched on its handle. There, young Yoshiaki Takazawa mans his pristine two-table restaurant, concocting elaborate, precise dishes like the steaming "fish and chips" —seasonal fish and potatoes coated with homemade breadcrumbs and served with a black mayonnaise mousse (left).